Travel

Two Days in Fez

October 27, 2018

Fes or Fez is the second largest city of Morocco. As you walk through the city of Fez, you walking through several 1,000+ years of Moroccan heritage. Its old town, or medina, is ranked as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and houses the oldest university in the world. There is something about the bustle of narrow, winding medina passages that give Fez its charm. Today, the past mixes with the present making Fez a must-see destination. If you are planning to visit Morocco, I encourage you to stay at least one night in the city of Fez to experience it for yourself. During my recent trip, I spent two lovely nights in this medieval city and I will sharing all the details including where I stayed, recommendations on what to do and where to eat.


WHERE TO STAY

Fez is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination. Many traditional houses (riads and dars) are being restored as second homes in the Fez medina.

Riad Anata

If you are spending a short time in Fes, you should absolutely stay in the heart of the medina to give yourself close proximity to the main sights. I stayed at Riad Anata for two nights during my visit to Fez.

The staff is extremely helpful and assisted us in arranging a private tour of the Fez medina with a knowledgeable tour guide. If it is your first time in Fez or if you have a limited amount of time, I would suggest hiring a guide, as it can be a bit of a maze navigating through the twists and turns of the Fez medina on your own. Doing this will allow you to see the important sights and then after your tour you can get lost and roam the medina on your own.


WHAT TO DO

Wander through the Souks

A word to the wise: if you are not with a guide, you will likely lose your way. There’s nothing terrible about this, as Moroccans are friendly and will help you– but they might ask to be paid for it. Buy souvenirs to take home or just stroll and visually browse through the different stalls. Wondering what to buy? Pottery, lanterns, leather, rugs, slippers, argan oil and spices are all great choices.

Visit the Tanneries

Visiting the Tanneries is one of the most popular things to see in Fes.  It’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  This ancient process still runs today as they use natural dyes from flowers to dye the leather. The tanneries in Morocco are as rare as ‘rare’ experiences come. This is where you can watch animal hides be stripped and dyed. The stripping of their hair is done via natural ammonia (a.k.a pigeon poo) which leaves an interesting smell lingering in the warm air. This area is not for the faint of heart (or for vegans). It’s not the most pleasant smell, but you’ve probably smelled worse at some point in your life.

TIP: Don’t refuse the mint offered to you.

I would recommend you get a guide for your first day in Fes, especially if you have not traveled in North Africa very much. The official guides are very well-qualified historians for the most part, and speak in many difference languages. They’ll help you focus on the details that make this medieval city so unique. They can quickly get you to the main sights without getting lost. Our tour was booked through our riad and lasted about 2-3 hours and cost 25 Euros.

Visit a Madrasa (Islamic School)

There are several old schools in Fes, including the oldest university in the world. Unlike mosques, some of these schools are open to the public for a small fee, and are absolutely beautiful.

Bou Inania Medersa

The Bou Inania Medersa is a beautiful religious building in the city that can be entered by non-Muslim people. It was previously a school and now it can be visited for its amazing architecture and green colors. Visiting is 20 dirhams. If you visit around 4 PM you might have that chance that there are barely any tourist present. Click here for more information.

Visit a Ceramic Studio

Apprenticeship is still alive and well in the ceramic making studios of Fes. Young men come to train and gradually learn the art of designing ceramic tiles for pottery and mosaics. The amount of work that goes into making even a small piece requires hours of effort and years of training.

We enjoyed watching the artisans live at work and learning about the process of creating ceramic masterpieces. No two designs are ever the same because the artisans don’t work with templates – each piece is completely unique. We even ended up purchasing several plates to take home. They are so beautiful and we receive so many compliments on them!

Get lost in the Fes Medina 

The medina of Fes is the oldest and largest of North Africa. It’s unique that it still has much of its history and roots and that’s why it’s super easy to get lost. Make sure to know which signs you should follow before you leave your riad or hotel, because even Google Maps hasn’t exactly gotten the whole place figured out yet.

Day trip to Chefchaouen

You may have seen the blue city of Chefchaouen all over your Instagram and Facebook feed in the past year due to its increasing popularity. I unfortunately did not do this and highly regret it. I wish I would have stayed an extra day in Fez to take a day trip to the blue city. Be aware that the trip does take about 3.5 hours each way. If you’re making your way through other parts of Morocco you could just drive to Chefchauen and stay a night and then continue on to the next city.

Enjoy a cooking class

Discover the secrets of the best Moroccan cuisine recipes in a genuinely relaxed atmosphere. There is no better way to get to know a country, than to explore its cuisine. Food speaks volumes about culture and history. It feeds the stomach and the soul. Taking a cooking class in Fez turned out to be a great way to not only immerse ourselves in the souks, but also a complete immersion into the Moroccan culture. The cooking class at Riad Anata takes you out in to the medina shopping. Dishes are prepared while learning the cultural significance of food in Moroccan life with Chef Samira. Ultimately, you enjoy the fruits of your labor while overlooking the city from the terrace.

Visit the Royal Place

While the Palace isn’t open to visitors, it still serves as the official residence to the King of Morocco whenever he visits Fes, you can still enjoy the architectural masterpieces that are the front gates.

See The Blue Gate 

Bab Boujeloud, commonly known as the “Blue Gate,” serves as the main entrance to the old Medina in Fez. It’s a good place to start your day as it’s the entrance to the souks and leads all the way to the tanneries. Its famous for its beautiful ornate blue mosaics and on the other side it is decorated green.


WHERE TO EAT

Dine Moroccan Style

  • Riad Rcif – one of the most famous old house in Fez Medina (Former Pasha’s Palace), located 3 minutes walk from the R’cif gate, accessible easily through the main door BAB JDID in the old medina. Riad Rcif in Fez also offers a selection of beers from Fez and Casablanca, wines from Meknes and French champagne.
  • Café Clock – Great place to have Moroccocan food in the heart of Fez’s ancient medina, just 200m down from Bab Boujloud gate. Immediately after the display of dissections in the butchers’ guzzar on Talaa Kabir. Try the camel burger if you dare. No alcohol served.
  • The Ruined Garden – A wonderful garden/courtyard where you sit under trees, surrounded by beautiful plants and old pots and a tortoise wandering around. Lovely relaxed atmosphere, great service, and traditional Moroccan food. No Alcohol Served.

  • Your Riad – Eating at a riad is an experience in itself. Typically each riad has a chef or staff that cook traditional Moroccan dishes and most of the time they are better than any local restaurant! It’s so pleasant to arrive, settle into your room and stroll up to the roof terrace for practically a private dining experience. I highly suggest you have at least one meal at a riad, whether it’s your riad or a random one you find while getting lost in the many alleys of Marrakech. Keep in mind, if you intend to have dinner at your riad you need to order the night before. This gives the staff time to shop for fresh ingredients at the market to prepare your meal.


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  1. I think Morocco’s architecture is just on a next level. I have always been so fearful about going there solo but you really have helped! Maybe one day soon!

    1. I agree. The architecture and vibe there is like no where else. So many women travel to Morocco solo now a days, I was with my husband, however I will say we never felt unsafe or fearing for our lives. Maybe you can book a tour with a company so you’re not technically by yourself.

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